Tourism
of Goa
Fairs
& Festivals ::
Christian
Festivals
Feast
of Three KingsPerched
high on a hill in Quelim, Salcete, stands the tiny centuries-old stone
chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Remedios or Our Lady of Cures. The incomparably
beautiful statue of the Madonna is seen holding the Child Jesus in open arm
and a small vase in the other, which has in it the panacea for all ills.
The Lady of the Mount is famous for her wondrous protection and
miracles and is also reputed to be the giver of children to sterile mothers.
On the day of the festivity She is covered with jewellery as tokens of
gratitude by Catholics and Hindus alike for favors and blessings received.
The chapel as well as the image are very ancient and are steeped in
historical associations, traditions, and legends.
Every year
thousands of devotees congregate at the stone chapel of Nossa Senhora dos
Reis to offer prayers of thanksgiving to Our Lady of Immaculate Conception -
a lighthouse of faith and courage to its people. High mass is offered on the
day of Epiphany and it is a time to rejoice and partying.
Some say
the Jesuits built this place of worship during the religious persecution
that raged Goa during the time of the Marques de Pombal. This fact seems to
be borne out by the subterranean passage found in the chapel that terminates
about a mile away in a huge boulder with six secret openings through which,
it is believed, that the faithful entered. These caves were later used by
tigers and panthers as lairs.
According to a legend another
boulder on a nearby hill is clearly stamped with two baby footprints and
those of an adult, together with a trough carved out of the rock which,
marks the spot where the Virgin rested with the Infant while the horse that
brought them quenched its thirst, before proceeding to Hill of Remedies
where she chose to remain.
However, some historians state that the
site now occupied by the Chapel of Remedios was once the site of a Hindu
temple. Perhaps that's the reason why a large number of Hindu devotees make
the yearly pilgrimage to the Mount to worship the Madonna, bringing with
them offerings of flowers, incense, and candles.
The Hill of
Remedios is situated at such a dizzy height that one can practically see the
whole of Goa nestling around in a panoramic picture at its feet. The chapel
itself is the Goan mariner's lighthouse of faith, hope and courage.
Surrounded
by the curious curves and shapes of maiden mountains, by waving and
whispering palms, the softness of golden sands, the endless changing moods
of sea and sky, and the bewitching magic of the chaste sun and moon, this
sanctuary is truly the realm of mystic beauty, the Abode of the Gods, and
one of perfect peace.
One seems nearer to Heaven in this hallowed
spot, and the sublime and child-like faith in the Lady of Cures by her
ardent devotees makes you leave the hill richer in mind and spirit.
It
is on the Festa dos Reis or the Epiphany on January 6 that the isolated Hill
of Remedios and chapel suddenly spring to life and activity. After staying
almost whole year in isolation, just nine days before the Feast of the
Novena starts, the hill revives and resounds to human voices and feet.
Come
early dawn, kettledrums and the blare of trumpets, announce to the sleepy
little neighboring villages that the day of rejoicing and festivity has
arrived.
The tolling bells call the faithful to prayer and
devotees visit the shrine in a non-stop stream. There's now an excellent
road winding its way up the steep hill right to the door of the chapel,
making the ascent possible by car. Still, most of the devotees prefer to
climb up hill.
Even the very old and infirm make their way up for
nine consecutive days to hear Mass and recite the Rosary before the Lady of
the Blue Mantle. Many come to offer their thanks for fulfilling their
wishes. The devotees are always lead by a drummer-boy with his kettledrum
who, by the loud beat of his drum, announces of another favor having being
granted by the Lady of Remedios.
The dramatic climax is reached on
January 6, the day of the Feast of the Magi, when three little boys ranging
in years from 8 to 10 are selected as kings from the three neighboring
villages of Quelim, Cansaulim and Arrosim to bring their gifts of gold,
myrrh, and frankincense to the Child-God.
Throughout the year
expectations and excitement run high as to who will be the fortunate ones
chosen as it must be either a son or grandson from these three villages; no
outsider can claim this privilege or honor.
To be a king, if only
for a day is no joke, so the young monarchs take meticulous care to groom
themselves for the exacting role. Meanwhile, on the Mount, the crowds gather
from all parts of Goa to attend the Mass and get a glimpse of the three
kings.
An extensive fair also springs up covering the entire
hilltop. One can buy anything from a meal to copper and brassware,
furniture, clothes, toys, trinkets, sweetmeats, glass bangles and spices of
all sorts.
The surging and trampling devotees congregate on the
hill's edge to watch the three kings from three different routes make their
appearance. Mounted on white horses, they make their way up, outfitted in
their royal garments elaborately embroidered in gold and silver, a crown
studded with glittering stones on their heads, and a whole procession of
relatives, friends, retinues bringing up the rear.
Each procession
is preceded by a brass band played as loud music and bursting of crackers
all the way up. The crowd in a frenzy of enthusiasm hails the Magi with a
deafening ovation. The kings dismount from their white steeds, and are
solemnly led to the special seats of honor reserved for them to assist at
the High Mass.
After the service, they are led down with the same
traditional ceremony with which they were brought up the hill. The whole
picturesque scene is a color-drenched dream of ancient pomp, pageantry and
glory.
A curious feature of the festival on the Mount is that
after midday, one will not find a single soul anywhere near by. The
staggering and swelling crowds disappear as mysteriously as the huge giant
fair, within a few hours, while the flags, buntings and other fanciful
decorations are all removed.
Since no priest consents to reside in
the parochial house, the chapel is closed till the next annual feast. During
the year should any devotee wants a mass of thanksgiving to be said at the
shrine, he goes up with the priest.
The reason for this fear of
the Mount is the belief that the place is haunted by Shivaji and his army
who after dusk make their appearance with flares that light up the whole
countryside around, which echoes to their marching feet.
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